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I have my first young dog and I am very excited about beginning her
herding training. He is 10 months old and runs around the outside of the
stock when I stand with them but he is tight and sort of desperate. How
do I get him to slow down and pay attention to me?
The whole crux of the early training is working on the dogs mental
attitude toward the stock and toward the work. The dog needs to accept
that he is to work the stock, not chase them and that he is to do that
work with you the handler. Until the dog understands these two basic premises
about herding it is very difficult to teach him anything else.
All of the early exercises that are done with the dog have this ultimate
aim as their goal. I like to begin as you have with the dog holding a
group of about 15-20 quiet, well-broke sheep in a group. I like to use
quiet sheep because I dont want the sheep to give the dog any unnecessary
excuses to run amok and ignore me. The sheep standing quietly with me
is so exciting to a young dog that it is often enough to cause the dog
to run into the stock and generally act like an idiot. This is a good
place to begin to teach the dog some manners toward stock.
First I give the dog a chance to calm down. I will allow him to run around
the sheep for two or three minutes. If he starts running into them, however,
I try to get in his way and use my presence to force him to back off.
This is the beginning of the young dogs first lesson dont
run into the sheep and bite them. I use as much pressure on the
dog as that particular dog requires for him to learn that lesson. If the
dog starts to run into the stock I apply pressure to the dog. With some
dogs this may consist of my saying uh uh, get back while I
take a step in the dogs direction. A really sensitive young dog
will read that as a great deal of pressure and will bend off me in response.
Another dog may not even hear this and will require me to get in front
of him or flap a bag or a stick in his face to get his attention.
This first lesson is crucial. Training a dog that does not have a good
attitude toward the stock is very difficult. A dog that views the stock
as so many hapless victims to be got at the first time an opportunity
presents itself is never going to be a dependable assistant. He must learn
early on that the stock are not a toy.
The next big lesson is that the dog must pay some attention to me. Happily
lessons one and two are usually learned concurrently. As that dog is learning
not to harass the stock he is also learning he had better pay attention
to me.
The danger here is that the first few times the dog goes to stock he is
so excited he may seem harder headed then he really is. Err on the side
of caution and gradually escalate how much pressure you apply to the dog
to get his attention and back him off the stock. It is very easy to misread
excitement for hard headedness and to over correct a sensitive dog early
on. Go slow the first few times you go to the stock and gradually increase
the amount of pressure you apply to get a response from the dog. Also
as your training progresses your dog should become more sensitive and
responsive to your corrections so be flexible and adjust your tone and
actions to your dogs responses.
A talented young dog is going to quickly become bored with running around
the stock and so I will begin to back around the field and allow the dog
to balance the stock up to me as I move around. This allows me to begin
to incorporate lessons three and four into my work on lessons one and
two. Lesson three is the dog must learn to balance and keep the stock
to me. Lesson four is the dog must learn to move around the stock either
clockwise or counter-clockwise. Most dogs are quite one handed and I use
this early time to help the dog develop some comfort traveling in either
direction.
During all the lessons, however, never lose sight of the most important
lessons. The dog must respect the stock and the handler. If the dog runs
amok or in any way mistreats the stock he must immediately feel the disapproval
of the handler in such a way that the behavior stops and the dog thinks
about what went wrong.
The trick in all of this is to use the amount of pressure that is appropriate
to the dog being worked and apply it at the time that it will help the
dog to know what he did wrong. That is correct the dog appropriately for
what he is thinking, not what he is doing. It is very easy to see that
the dog is harassing the stock when he is swinging one of them around
by the tail. This is also way too late for a correction. The correction
needs to be given when the dog thinks Im going to grab that
sheep by the tail not when the dog has a hold of the stock and isnt
using his brain at all.
Most experienced trainers do this early training as I have described because
it is fairly easy for them to tell the instant the young dogs start to
have wrong thoughts and they can apply the correction immediately. A soft,
responsive dog can be trained fairly easily by a novice trainer in much
the same way because the dog is going to have very few dangerous thoughts
and those will be easily squashed with a word or a step or two toward
the dog to apply pressure.
Unfortunately, too often novice trainers end up with some very determined
dogs or through the miscommunication of early corrections make moderately
soft dogs harder. These kinds of dogs can be very hard for the novice
to correct since quite often the novice trainer cannot tell that the dog
is about to run amok until the assault on the stock has already begun.
Since the idea is to teach the dog not to assault, a correction given
after the assault has begun is ineffective.
In a situation with a harder dog and a novice handler I would suggest
that the help of a professional trainer be sought. A lesson or a training
clinic can provide some valuable insight into improving your timing and
what signs to look for when your dogs thoughts are starting down
dangerous paths.
I have had some success teaching some novice handlers with these types
of dogs using a long line. I begin their training by teaching them to
drive so that the dog and the handler are both working on the same side
of the stock with the handler controlling the dog through a line. The
handler is then in a good position to correct the dog the instant he begins
thinking about going after the stock. Using a line in this manner the
handler can allow the dog a small amount of slack and when the dog begins
to assault the stock the long line will make the correction for the handler
much as dogs are taught not to pull on a slack leash.
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